new york fashion week fall 2012

February 15, 2012

Fall 2012 New York Fashion Week: Elie Tahari, Theia

[All Images via WWD]

Elie Tahari Fall/Winter 2012

The winter season does not have to mean drab and boring — just ask Elie Tahari! The line’s Fall/Winter 2012 collection presentation was anything but dull, consisting of practical separates like silk blouses, fitted trousers and wool coats, but in a color palette ranging from cobalt and plum to emerald and scarlet. It was evident that, according to Elie Tahari, color is the new neutral. Extras such as dyed fur collars and bright red tights only added to the effect. A standout look was a deep red, a-line wool coat with hints of scarlet in the sleeve lining, undoubtedly just as warm as any other winter coat, but with a lot more personality. Despite its brightness, the collection seemed extremely wearable for the modern woman and was a refreshing change from some dark and heavy looks we often drudgingly sport during the winter months.

Theia Fall/Winter 2012

Inspired by the Goddess Athena, the Theia F/W 2012 collection embodied both mythical power and beauty. The line’s runway debut included flowing gowns, cocktail dresses as well as corsets and helmets to create a simultaneously radiant yet fierce visual. Armored embroideries, distressed sequins, metal chains, and crushed pearl accompanied the looks made of silk, velvet, georgette, organza, and leather to embody the powerful yet luminescent Greek Goddess of light. Although the collection was predominantly black and deep purple, dramatic looks like a striking, hammered silver sequin gown brought an overall warmth and vibrancy to the collection. As creative director Don O’Neill expressed in the event’s program, the collection sought to convey “power, radiance, and glittering light,” and its juxtaposition of unrelenting edginess and classic, glamorous beauty did just that.

– Samantha Kufeld

February 15, 2012

Fall 2012 Fashion Week: Naeem Khan

by Julia DiNardo

We started off the Naeem Khan fall 2012 experience backstage with James Boehmer, NARS Director of Global Artistry, who told us the look is “all about the liner paired with radiant skin.” He used the Eyeliner Stylo, a new item for NARS coming out in fall 2012 paired with the Larger Than Life Lengthening Mascara to create the cool, graphic eye look, while Laurent Philippon for Bumble & Bumble thought of an easy, slouchy French twist made to look spontaneous and a bit messy with pieces coming out in the front for added softness. Since the clothing were largely in a palette of silver, cream, and black, CND’s Angi Winkle used two coats of Bloodline to add “a pop of color to the collection.”

[Image via MBFashionWeek.com]

Inspired by the “decadence and dust of India,” Khan stated that it took ” hundreds of artisans and three months to put together. This collection is a blend of various ancient artistic techniques used on both bodies and textiles, coming together in a vision fit for the 21st century.” The lineup was indeed gorgeous, meant for red carpet dressing or luxurious lounging, as Khan stays true to his quality and craftsmanship, which trumps all trends and fads.

–Julia DiNardo

February 13, 2012

Fall 2012 New York Fashion Week: Park Choon Moo, Son Jung Wan

by fashion pulse contributor

[Images via WWD.com]

One of the most important aesthetics of Korean beauty is “Yeo Baek”, or “The Void.” With this in mind, explore a collection that combines emptiness and material, spiritual, and self. This may seem rather profound for a clothing line, but ParkChoonMoo produced something rather new in zen art for Fall 2012. The freedom of the clothing could be felt in alpaca fur shawls, organic cotton hooded dress, and silk skirts. Shifting color from white to black, the apparel took on a more paneled, dimensional appeal with over sized and wide leg pants with capes and coats.

[Image via Iconographymag.com]

Son Jung Wan

Against the backdrop of the snowy Saturday day, Son Jung Wan’s “oriental winter garden” couldn’t have been more perfect. Various fade-away grays and creams matched strong turquoise, python, white leather, and metallic. The cable knit panels and open crocheted knits felt equally as youthful as the leather shorts and silk skirts. Still, it was the detail that left an impression; gardens always create that limitless romantic and exaggerated effect, and Son Jung Wan’s interpretation bloomed effortlessly.

-Alana Quagliariello

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February 12, 2012

Fall 2012 Fashion Week: Academy of Art University, Vantan Tokyo

by fashion pulse contributor

[image via WWD.com, Jeanette Au’s collection]

[image via WWD.com, Xiang Zhang’s collection]

Fresh, young talent. So fresh, they aren’t even out of school yet. These lucky few were given the opportunity students only dream of, the chance to present a collection at Lincoln Center in New York Fashion Week for Fall/Winter 2012. With industry professionals dispersed throughout the audience at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week, debuting their collections is the opportunity of a lifetime for many of these students as the national and international fashion community mingle together for this fashion conundrum.

Academy of Art

Since 2005, the School of Fashion has been premiering the collections of recent graduates so as to help launch their careers. This year, nine students showed eight women’s wear collection and one men’s wear collection. Amy Bond was inspired by complex shapes, but made complexities appear clean. Black, gray, and ivory formed a collection of wool dresses, jackets and pants that were minimal and refined.

Xiang Zhang used Plato’s Theory of the Golden Rectangle to determine the proportions of his designs. White cotton shirts maintained a certain edge when paired with silk pleated skirts. Deanna Pei-Ju Lo wanted to create a collection that “borrowed from the boys.” Nonetheless, she created subtle femininity with black leather and metallic dresses and tops. Donghyuk Dan Kim looked to vintage military uniforms to construct his men’s designs. The clothing from the American West inspired him to create brown vests, plaid wool/leather jackets and a fabulous wool/leather plaid parka.

Farida Khan’s “unconventional beauty” came to life in a geometric way. Clothing was laminated and vinyl giving it a futuristic polished feel. Kate Y.K. Lee defined her seams with sharp, angled lines. Pulling from the sculptural elements of architecture, she created tweed tops, navy leather leggings, and wool check dresses, tops, and pants. Jeanette Au’s color palette enabled her to stand out from the crowd. Her mohair metallic tops popped in deep sapphire, silver blue, platinum, copper, garnet and ruby. Sergei Diagliav’s Ballet Russe inspired the sweaters, dresses, coats and capes. Finally, Jade Juanyu Liu used a unique layering technique to create a shadowy effect. Copper fur dresses, coats and vests created space with dark heather wool skirts and quartz bonded tops.

[Image via TheUpcoming.com, Yuya Kubohara’s collection]

Vantan Tokyo

Vantan Design Institute is the first and only design school, among all the educational institutions in Japan to participate in Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in NYC. The school prides itself on producing graduates with highly developed design techniques as well as business skills. Graduates hope to become active young designers on an international level. Cheryl Chee’s “Preservation of Me” maintained a very neutral color palette of black, white and beige, except for a gorgeous green lapel jacket, our favorite piece of her collection. Masato Miyata’s use of prints helped explore his idea that “to hide=to show.” Fun peaches and blues gave a girly feel to an otherwise menswear inspired collection of collared shirts and pants.

Yuya Kubohara’s “Graphical Girl” made amazing use of color with orange and gray being the most dominant pair. The leggings and jackets felt youthful and fresh, with detailed sleeves that demanded attention. Cheung Siu Yan had nature in mind as she created what we want to describe as the “gothic mermaid.” A blue and green watery print met black leather to create long dresses and skirts. But, it was the side pleat pant that really gave movement.

One thing is for sure; there is great talent amongst the young designers.