February 28, 2018
by fashion pulse contributor
by Darby Vinciguerra
[All Comes From Nothing x COOME images via the brand/photo by Frazer Harrison/Getty Images]
Just try to escape the 90’s; the runways certainly won’t let forget about the decade for fall 2018! The year 1997, to be precise, when Ben Affleck was “Chasing Amy,” is the one that appears to be highlighted the most, particularly in the
All Comes from Nothing collection. Set as a dedication to artist
Gustav Klimt, the lineup featured layered velvet coupled with black leather moto jackets and side seam striped pants that were prevalent on the runway, which gave way to modern updates to items such as silver puffers with a mix of fur and high-tech knit mesh paneling to complete these looks. To accessorize the looks, the UK bag brand
COOME gave an additional nod to the
1990’s with its micro black leather backpacks and canteen bags reminiscent of vintage Chanel but with a modern fringe update.
Overall, this is a collection of fall must-haves, perfect for those experiencing 90’s fashion for the first, or second time around.
February 15, 2016
by fashion pulse contributor
by Connor Norton
Raquel Allegra, in her Fall 2016 presentation, entitled “Good Vibrations”, divorced herself from the muted, pale pastels of her previous collections for a more vibrant, playful aesthetic. Models, carefully positioned on road cases meant for storing stage equipment, nostalgically recalled the band groupies of the 80s and 90s. Silk, gauze, alpaca wool, chiffon, and surprisingly, velvet were just a few of the textiles employed to create Allegra’s signature oversized and billowy silhouettes. Missing from the fall collection was the designer’s trademark webbed cotton cocoon tees, however, Allegra’s classic use of tie-dye appeared in the collection as well as varying shades of burgundy, mustard yellow, heather gray, hot pink, deep purple, and royal blue.
Floral prints also surfaced in Allegra’s fall presentation; the most impressive look of the collection was a tie-dyed blue velvet blazer cordially called the “Bowie Blazer”, layered upon a grey-blue, silk charmeuse blouse paired with tie-dyed blue velvet flare trousers. This season marked a noteworthy transition from her previously soft and subdued collections towards a more whimsical and eccentric design aesthetic.
February 11, 2016
by fashion pulse contributor
by Connor Norton
The Japanese house, Pas de Calais, under the creative control of designer Yukari Suda, preserved its harmonious blend of Japanese minimalism and French decadence in its Autumn/Winter 2016 collection entitled “Decayed”. On the fifth floor of a loft in SoHo, guests were transported to the depths of a deserted forest. Moss was scattered about the weathered dark wood floors and decaying wood beams were positioned in the back, while models posed on tiered stanchions. Asian-inspired music played softly in the background, fused with the sounds of children laughing and the lull of running water further amplified the theme of the hidden forest.
Dutiful to her soft color palette, Suda engaged in traditional dyeing to create rich, muted hues of navy, heather gray, forest green, cream, auburn, and russet brown. Linen, silk, cashmere, wool, cotton, and shearling were fashioned in defined, yet casual silhouettes. Frayed, raw stitching bedecked the minimalist outerwear uniting the brand’s French inspiration with its Japanese roots. Models wore soft suede loafers in shades of grey, brown, and charcoal with white stitching and dark wooden soles. Hair was tightly pulled away from the natural, naked color palette of the face. With no considerable departure from the brands previous aesthetic, Pas de Calais’ Autumn/Winter 2016 collection maintained its traditional usage of rich material, soft color palettes, and casual silhouettes.
September 17, 2015
by fashion pulse contributor
by Christine Neumann
As New York Fashion Week draws to a close , we can’t help but now look forward to the season ahead, with visions of florals and tropical breezes top of mind. Designers translated those warm breezes and floral-printed confections into flowing, voluminous silhouettes. Spring 2016 still echoes the presence of bohemian ideals, however this time around, designers and brands have elevated the garments with luxurious fabrics and distinct prints.
The Parsons MFA runway show for emerging student talent displayed a range of design techniques and aesthetics, but one particular standout was the work of Mayako Kano of New Zealand. Photographs from early 20th century Japan inspired her collection, and showed full skirts and flowing dresses with a garden of colored embroidery. The lineup had a feeling of weightlessness, even when using heavily embroidered silken fabric, the intricate floral designs made garments looks dainty, while other pieces were found in airy, sheer fabrics that lent an ethereal feeling to the voluminous silhouettes.
[Image via Cynthia Rowley; Photo by William Eadon]
Cynthia Rowley sartorially captured the beach this season, in a collection showen via a video presentation. The runway show, which was shot on a beach in Montauk, New York used flying drones to make the audience feel as if they were there on the sand. Breezy maxi dresses were shown in shining black fabric with elegant pastel floral designs tactfully incorporated into the designs. Rowley brought in brighter hues through loose fitting silk garments and sparkling embellishments, all evoking the feeling of warm winds and gorgeous sunsets on the beach.
Christine is a Sorrelli New York Fashion Week Correspondent