Fashion Pulse Daily - Part 749

October 3, 2010

Spring 2011 Backstage Beauty + Runway Reviews: Jeremy Laing

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I spoke with Marco Santini, head hairstylist for  ION Studio at the Jeremy Laing SS11 show, about his inspiration for the look.  “The hair this season is very conceptual.”  He explained that some of Laing’s designs incorporated a head piece reminiscent of a doo rag, so to complement the collection he wanted to mimic a doo rag using only the models’ own hair.  The top was made smooth and shiny and came together in the back with a small band of hair cutting across horizontally.  To contrast the texture at the top of the head, the models’ own texture was left for the hair to swing underneath the ‘doo rag.’
With simplistic makeup designed by Hung Vanngo for Mac Cosmetics, the overall look for hair and makeup was a statement of strength that went along with the designer’s aesthetic.  The concentration for the makeup was contoured cheeks, a fresh foundation and washes of color on the lid and over the lips.
It was my first time ever viewing one of Laing’s collections on the runway and I must say I truly loved it!  I would honestly wear every piece including the chain-mail-like doo rag.  The color palette included a vibrant orange and indigo as strong color statements with black running throughout the collection and a lot of greys and neutrals throughout.  What I really enjoyed about the collection was how Laing’s clothes are cut in a way that brought a freshness to flowing layers by combining them with body hugging pieces.
–Jen Paelmo

October 3, 2010

Backstage Beauty: Vena Cava, Costello Tagliapietra

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[Images via NYMag.com]
Backstage at the Vena Cava show this season, hair, makeup and nails were glamorously modern and perfectly polished.
Ted Gibson, key hair stylist for the show (and many others this season) created a beautifully textured, modern chignon finished off with a head scarf twisted in a fresh new way.  To get the look he first used Tame It Shine Lotion from his own product line, Beautiful Hold Hairspray and a flat iron to get the hair sleek and smooth then pony-tailed it close to the nape of the neck.  He then teased the ponytail for texture and worked it into a chignon using large hair pins.  A long scarf was wrapped around the head once then twisted to give an added layer of texture.
Christian McCulloch For Mac Cosmetics keyed the Michelle Pfeiffer from Scarface inspired makeup look.  Models had on a full face of makeup with a metallic navy smoky eye, coral blusher and a matte orange lipstick pressed into the lip.  The look was kept modern and fresh by using minimal foundation or none at all and keeping the brows full and natural.

The nails were done by Nonie Creme with Butter London and were actually press-on nails for the show, but you can get the look on your own with a half moon of black (Jack Black) at the base of the nail and a mushroom taupe (Yummy Mummy) on the other half of the nail.
Overall the complete look was beautifully done; modern, glamorous ,and wearable, a perfect pairing with Vena Cava’s strong yet feminine designs.
[Images via Jen Paelmo & Style.com]
I loved Nelson Vercher’s (key hair stylist for Rita Hazan Salon) description of the hair design for this season’s runway.  In a failed attempt to be swanky by using my “professional” hair stylist lingo, I described the hair style as something that looked “floral inspired.”  Nelson thought for a minute and replied…”hmmmm… I was really going for ‘HAT.’  I had to giggle a little.  The look was actually beautifully wearable (I ended up wearing it the next day) with a new, flatter dimension and fresh unkempt texture, hat hair for all to enjoy!  Simply place your chignon off to the side and higher then ear level, tease your ponytail and pin the chignon very flat in order to create that ‘hat-like’ shape.
The makeup was minimalist but beautifully fresh.  With almost nothing on the skin, Lisa Butler for Mac Cosmetics created a look that used shadow from colors already found in the skin and inspired by the ‘sugared almond’ color that ran through Costello Tagliapietra’s collection.  What I thought was especially new and cool to try out was the mascara placement which Lisa concentrated through the center of the eyes on the top and bottom lashes.  This creates a really doll-like roundness to the eye. I want to give a shout-out to my friend Moises who was doing makeup backstage at the show (he’s the one in the black hat) he’s a FANTASTIC makeup artist and a wonderful friend
Anyways, go ahead – try out the makeup look and wear your hat hair proudly!
-Jen Paelmo

October 2, 2010

Spring 2011 Backstage Beauty + Runway Reviews: Prabal Gurung

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[Images via Jen Paelmo, Style.com]
To go with Prabal Gurung’s quite luxurious Spring/Summer 2011 collection, a very modern, futuristic feel was brought on through the hair, makeup and nails backstage.
Jin Soon for Sally Hansen created an elegant nail design using a beige base polish with a curved coral strip near the tip of the nail.  Colors were designed in a collaboration with Sally Hansen and Prabal Gurung and will be available to you this upcoming Spring.  A fresh take on a classic, french tip inspired nail – definitely one to try!
Odile Gilbert for Morrocconoil’s ponytail/chignon hybrid kept the hair strong, structured and pulled off the face.  A simple, silver barrette clipped the ponytail close to the head and the hair was made shiny using Moroccanoil products and sleek with a straightening iron.
Tom Pechaux for Mac Cosmetics topped off the look with a minimalist, futuristic feeling makeup void of color, and hear this ladies… void of mascara!  White eyeshadow was packed onto the lid, cheeks contoured, and highlighted sans blusher and lips made nude and muted out.   To get a look like this at home, try a bare eye using white or cream colored shadow and possibly a brown mascara or a natural looking mascara paired with a nude/coral or beige lip and a terracotta/peachy cheek.  This translated look will give you a little bit of color but will still have that minimalistic feel from the show.
The collection itself was quite complete beginning with a color-block story and ending with a flowing white evening dress with what looked like modern tassels that would sway as the model walked.  There were floral feeling pieces with veins of  coral color making an appearance amongst the bright blue, yellow, and tangerine.  Prabal’s mix of bright color and neutrals on luxurious fabrics showed softness and strength in a fresh way.
-Jen Paelmo

October 2, 2010

Milan Fashion Week Spring 2011: Jil Sander, Versus and Giorgio Armani

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[Images via Style.com]

Jil Sander

For Jil Sander designer Raf Simons, the idea for Spring 2011 was a maximalist minimalism, working his clean lines into the voluminous ball-gown-skirt-and-t-shirt look. Think a much more streamlined version of Sarah Jessica Parker’s SATC2 look when she meets John Corbett in the bazaar. Where Simons held back in details he pumped it up in color and texture: earthy yellow and orange, royal blue, Barbie pink, stripes, and leather.

[Images via Style.com]

Versus

For a designer known for celebrating a woman’s curves, Donatella Versace’s spring collection of the recently revived label seemed to send off fireworks. Mini, knee-, and calf-length dresses hugged and wrapped in all the right places, gradually progressing from assertive, primary plaids to micro florals. Versace and partner-in-crime Christopher Kane admitted the fabrics actually came from the Versace archives. Yet they added trendy elements like mesh paneling to usher it into 2011. The result guarantees that the spring Versus woman won’t look like anyone else at the party.

[Images via Style.com]

Giorgio Armani

With a house on the island of Pantelleria, halfway between Europe and North Africa, Giorgio Armani has good reason to be inspired by the midnight sky over the Sahara. His spring show was homage to the rich, deep blues of a barely-lit African sky and its scattering of stars. Crystals, sequins, and shimmer adorned impeccable jackets, skirts, dresses, and slim-fit pants. The goings-on under the Saharan sky had made an impact on the iconic designer as well. Tribal jewelry and Tuareg head wear accented the layered silhouette, and proved an intellectual extension of the inspiration: in a collection almost entirely in blue, why not incorporate the head dress of a nomadic group known as the “blue people”?

-Kaci Hamilton

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