by Kelly HanThe Show: Katie Gallagher
The Theme: Refined Luxe meets Nostalgic Goth Runaway
The Color Palette: Onyx, oxblood, slate, and black
The Signature Look of the Collection: Katie Gallagher reflected an eerie, dimly lit monastery in her goth-inspired pieces. Inspired by abandoned amusement parks, Gallagher opted for darker hues such as onyx and slate. Slicked back hair with a luminescent shine hinted at sportiness, which supplemented her nylon jackets’ seam details and ponte crop tops. Gallagher’s menswear-inspired garments featured crisp shirtdresses and textured trousers that would be seen along the likes of Man Repeller devotees. On the other side of the style spectrum, exaggerated, droopy hair bows hinted at a more feminine, childlike quality. which aimed to epitomize the decay of youth. To compensate for the ubiquitous black pieces, sheer tights and chiffon sleeves featured a chaotic swirl of black lines akin to carousels for a touch of patterning.
The Show: Charlotte Ronson
The Theme: A Dark Fairy-Tale Romance
The Color Palette: Cranberry, black, navy, cream
The Signature Look of the Collection: Recognized as perpetually showcasing an airy and ultra-feminine yet sporty collection rich in colors, Charlotte Ronson opted for an inkier palette of largely deep cranberry and black. Despite the collection’s darker hues, edgier leather pieces such as a paper-thin leather jackets and laser-cut skirts were immersed in a sea of feminine silhouettes. One particular piece was menswear-inspired leather suspender-shorts that still evoked newness. The collection’s sheer, lace overlays and tailored topcoats with crimson velvet accents stayed true to Ronson’s aesthetic. On the other hand, exposed, peekaboo shoulder detailing hinted at a newly found maturity, which juxtaposed with the more youthful and enchanting gold hairpieces.
The Show: Rebecca Vallance
The Theme: Ladylike Mischief
The Color Palette: Burnished gold, cream, cranberry, black
The Signature Look of the Collection: Despite being a native Australian, Rebecca Vallance has channeled an urban structural quality into her pieces that are actually eponymous with New York. An opulent white and gold jacquard sweatshirt as well as a delicate, sheer lace dress were among the several feminine looks. A stark contrast to her previous collections is Vallance’s daring take on more androgynous pieces such as the leather pintucked trouser and a boxy cream top. An eye-catching wine coat lingered amongst the ubiquitous white, yet, the lineup pointed to Vallance’s signature fluid-yet-refined draping and tailoring techniques. No matter what the trend, be it neon-saturated pantsuits or paint-splattered denim, Vallance provides timeless pieces that don’t rely heavily on mainstream trends.