Looks from Alexandre Herchcovitch, Thakoon, Trina Turk, Zac Posen and Badgley Mischka are the latest of our best of New York Fashion Week: Backstage Beauty Coverage! See below for the looks and trends, products, and how-tos that you won’t want to miss!
Alexandre Herchcovitch: Nails
Unusual for spring, but just perfect for his collection this season, the team at Zoya went black with a touch of a metallic finish and created an opaque nail look with “Raven,” applying two coats of the dark hue with the Zoya Armor top coast for a shiny, polished finish.
Thakoon: Nails, Hair, Makeup
Gina Edwards for Morgan Taylor handled the pinky white, shimmery nail look with sophisticated ease, so that it was elevated from its overtly feminine roots to runway-worthy chic. On artificial nails, she used “Adorned in Diamonds” to achieve the pale pink, light reflecting shade.
Kérastase’ Odile Gilbert created slightly messy, sensual hair with a deep side part, working in Mousse Bouffante while blowdrying, then using some Laque Dentelle spray while curling random pieces to set, building some matte texture with Powder Bluff dry shampoo, and finishing off with some additional spray. The elastic around the neck was intended to keep the hair down while continuing to blow out the roots.
NARS’ lead makeup artist, Diane Kendal, started with fresh and beautiful skin to create the slightly ’70s look, and with some moisturizer and light foundation, worked in a lot of mascara just on top (Larger Than Life® Lengthening Mascara), filled the brows with Bali Eyeshadow, and used the Cappadoce Matte Multiple (new for Spring 2014; try Palm Beach Multiple) to contour the eye, on the apple of the cheek, AND on the lips!
Trina Turk: Hair, Nails
Martin Christopher Harper for Cutler Salon went for “easy, beautiful hair; refined and taken care of with a slight play on the ’70s.” Using Redken Rootful Root Lifting Spray from roots to ends, he blew out the hair with Full Frame 07 Protective Volumizing Mousse, then used a 1 and 1/4 inch curling iron to create soft, subtle waves, just enough to get some bend in the hair but not a full-on curl. He set the style with Fashion Work 12 Hairspray for a softened finish.
Julep used a great opaque white, better than Wite-out, if you ask me, on nails, while toes got a splash of two shades to contrast well with the mules seen on models’ feet. “Hayden,” a soft peach, was laid down first, then “Bethany” a punchy coral, was striped on the toes for a linear, cool effect.
Zac Posen: Nails, Hair
Gina Edwards for nail laquer brand Morgan Taylor went a bit crafty at Zac, literally sponging on, albeit lightly, the color on the nail from the midsection on; the nail techs literally broke a sponge in half and dabbed on the polish in the brand’s shades of “Coming up Roses” and “Polished Up,” to create a faded rose garden effect, much like the luxurious pastel hues found in the collection.
With flower basket hair in mind, Odile Gilbert for Kérastase curled and dry textured the hair into a fine frenzy, pinning away from the face and generously adding Powder Buff Dry Shampoo and Laque Dentelle for extra hold.
Badgley Mischka: Nails, Hair, Makeup
Cool blue has never felt so right! at Deborah Lippmann, after applying the Gel Lab Base Coat, Lippmann applied two coats of “Blue Orchid,” followed by one of “Le Vie En Rose” to add some soft shimmer and a dash of pink, finishing it all with the shiny Gel Lab Top Coat. Toes got the matteen finish of a white hue, “Pseudo Silk Kimono” to keep the look clean and modern.
Peter Gray for Moroccanoil, inspired by photographer Jacque Henri Lartigue went for a ’20s/’30s aesthetic mixed with modernity by mixing shiny and dry, textured hair into one finely sculpted look. Starting with rough drying the hair, Gray applied Moroccanoil Treatment Light from mid to the ends, followed by Root Boost and after combing that through, added some Treatment to protect hair from the heat. Curling with a 1 and a half inch iron and pinning the curls, before the runway he used some Glimmer Shine Spray for a runway-worthy look.
Tom Pecheux for MAC Cosmetics started with a clean clear skin base, and focused in on the eyes, a greatly worked mixture of Chroma Cake in White and Hi-Def in Cyan with Fix+ and widely spread it across the lid, creeping up to the brow, using a Fascination Eye Pencil for added definition and linear appeal.
Trends: Squeaky clean skin, pastels, high volume lashes, dry texture hair.