Fall 2012 New York Fashion Week: Sally LaPointe, Katie Gallagher

[All images via WWD]

Sally Lapointe F/W 2012

Accompanied by the haunting strokes of a violin a la Requiem for a Dream and a pumpinh smoke machine, a sharp and coherent collection parades between the throng of guests. Inspired by Kafka’s Metamorphosis, Lapointe‘s designs echo the protagonist’s experience of isolation and neglect after finding himself transformed into a giant insect-like creature ensued by his ultimate death. Clean off-white leather, silk and luxe layers of capes, crepe trousers and angular cut t-shirts are followed by taupe satin and navy wool cashmere. The coats are structured, some adorned with an homage to the creature’s limbs, and are paired with floor-length skirts, dresses or bodysuits. The snake-skin like mustard yellow and blue “Metamorphosis” print is the only non-solid color of the collection, serving as the transition toward ankle-grazing gold patent pants, fitted dress and flowing skirt. Maroon layers and brown lamb skin foretell the imminent finale of black; worth highlighting are the exoskeleton-like sleeves adorning both a loose and fitted dress that culminate in a sheer cape dress of the same material, paired with elbow-length skin gloves.

Katie Gallagher F/W 2012

The Katie Gallagher collection alludes to the wild, unruly nature of the earth and our inability to possess the space it occupies, an inspiration echoed most obviously in the models’ teased updos, green eye shadow and tribal black dots adorning either side of their noses. Again, layers reign in the lineup, placed in contrast with asymmetrical cuts and structured high-necked tops. The designs are predominantly black, a warm white, and an earthy green interspersed with brown pieces. A solid and coherent presentation with a clear and concise inspiration, Silent Soil F/W 2012 speaks to the helpless human condition in the face of mother nature.

–Maria Eilersen