In 2009, Mark Fast made news when his stylist walked out amidst his decision to use plus-size models. A season later, the Canadian knitwear designer is still sending models in sizes 12-14 down the runway, remarkably determined to challenge the norm that only rail-thin models can dazzle in his dresses. The daring move might have stolen the limelight, but sizes aren’t the only opposites in Mark Fast’s runway show in London; he’s also playing with silhouettes, alternating between loose drapery and body-hugging dresses and knitwear. In his experimentation with drapery, Fast wrapped his models with loose fabrics in seemingly spontaneous ways. More impressive was the cross between Fast’s two paths — for several looks, he ruffled and gathered up his tight dresses with dramatically draped fabric.
His other game – the fitting dresses and knitwear – played with cobwebby knits and conspicuous knots. There was also something athletic about the knitwear; the straps around the arms, the tight fit, the overtly modern designs. Apart from his nerve, this collection certain said something about the designer’s unique vision for knits and his plan to move forward.
You may associate the brand with chic scarves, luxury-leather totes, or shoes adorned with the signature bow tie, – or with sure-to-please-daddy-on-his-birthday-ties always wrapped to induce oohs and aahs. This spring, Ferrgamo skews younger with a jelly version of their signature shoes, which are priced at a much more affordable $140. Buy them online at Bloomingdale’s and get ready for spring!
A presentation format is a terrific way to view J.Mendel’s latest looks of the season, as each opulent detail cannot be missed. Although fur is always a J.Mendel staple, this season we felt very much into the interesting blend of textures, namely the soft with the hard. Although a J.Mendel lady would never be referred to as a ‘tough chick’, she has evolved a bit via metallic tweeds, evening gowns of bolder color, and the spiky jewelry that set the tone from designer extraordinaire Christine McPartland.
[Carlos showing the first dress he created for the collection, a sneak peak at a fabulous printed dress]
[The dress shown above, on the runway. Image via MercedesBenzFashionWeek.com]
After a wonderful backstage interview with the ever-charming and talented Carlos Miele, I was anxious to see the clothes on the runway, assured they would receive accolades from the press. Backstage on the hangers the clothes looked, stunning, and as predicted, on the models they took my breath away. Cool fur capelets, fringed vests, and evening gowns mixed with a color palette of swirled coral/pink stole the show. In a season when most designers veered away from color, Miele embraced the rainbow found in his applique, charmeuse, lace, chiffon, and more. Of MAJOR note, however is that pret-a-porter gets an eco-consious, thanks to Mr. Miele. This season he used remnant pieces of fabric in his collection, as well as the birth of Bio Denim –– a biodegrable fabric produced from excess denim leftovers with a natural softner finish (made of Cupuacu’s butter, a Brazilian traditional fruit found in the Amazon) opposed to the usual chemicals and enzymes.
