From the Runway | Fashion Pulse Daily - Part 30

From the Runway

February 11, 2014

NYFW Fall 2014: Jenny Packham

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jenny packham fall 2014 2014

[Photos via Style.com]

It’s really no surprise that many of the collections unveiled this week are infused with a ‘70s vibe. After all, the decade was a time for glamorous, albeit effortless fashion. And, harking back to the period allows us to slow down a bit—to escape from the fast-paced chaos that is New York Fashion Week—even if it’s only for a brief moment. Jenny Packham offered us such an outlet by paying homage to Bianca Jagger, a quintessential, no-fuss style icon. Jagger appeared as though she lived in her eveningwear, and many of Packham’s jewel-tone dresses would have fit seamlessly into her wardrobe.

From crystal encrusted, deep V-neck gowns with high slits to sequin-embellished minis trimmed with the softest feathers, there’s no question that all of the looks were adoringly lavish. Yes, even though the models walked slowly and gracefully to fitting songs like “3rd Stone From The Sun” by Jimi Hendrix and Lana Del Rey’s “Blue Velvet,” there was not enough time to take in the intricately patterned beadwork; a Packham signature.

jenny packham fall 2014

Of course, there were plenty of softer silhouettes for those that prefer to make a classic statement. Ruffled sleeves provided a flirty finish to one crimson red number that was adorned with a golden gem brooch above the hip. And, an off-white design in a gauzy silk was cinched at the waist, the flowing material forming a gorgeous bow-like illusion.

As a nod to the relaxed, throw-on-and-go style of the ‘70s, Packham rounded out her red carpet-ready line with loose, lustrous sweaters that paired well with full skirts and wide-leg satin trousers. And, the accessories—from a crop of ostrich feathered clutches to chunky gemstone earrings and bracelets—were eye-catching enough to speak for themselves. In other words, as far as Packham’s concerned, you don’t need to pile on much in order to look stunning (aside from one of her designs, of course). And, isn’t that what effortless dressing is all about?

February 11, 2014

NYFW Fall 2014: Tracy Reese

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by Lily Oswald

tracy reese fall 2014

The Show: Tracy Reese

The Theme:  An exercise in fine texture: feathers, knits, voluminous brocade, embroidery, and sequins.

The Color Palette:  Natural hues of mustard yellow and brown, progressing into graphic black and white. A palette of burgundy with pops of gold rounded out the evolving palette.

The Collection’s Signature Look:  The show was highly diverse, from ornate, embroidered brocade fabrics to modernist graphic prints in slouchy silhouettes. The most stunning look was a winter landscape graphic on a pullover, paired with slouchy herringbone boyfriend trousers, a fringed scarf, and messy bed-head casual locks.

*This feature is part of the Sorrelli for Fashion Pulse Daily Exclusive New York Fashion Week Runway Coverage.

 

February 11, 2014

NYFW Fall 2014: Reem Acra

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reem acra fall 2014

[Photo via Style.com]

For fall 2014, Reem Acra set the clock at midnight and transported us to Paris, where we attended a party that can only be described as “frosted.” As always, the designer proves she’s quite masterful at embellishments. Glistening, spindly branches traveled up the sheer bodices of gowns while layers of chiffon draped naturally to the floor. These silhouettes were especially delicate, making for a crop of dresses that can be appreciated alone, without an ounce of jewelry or any other accoutrements.

reem acra fall 2014

[Photo via Style.com]

 On the other hand, there were plenty of ultra-modern, structured garments. From violet wool co-ordinate sets with full, A-line skirts, to thick, double-belted trench coats and silky velvet bomber jackets, there were plenty of looks for the edgier sort. But, somehow, the entire range could be deemed appropriate for the same soirée.

Perhaps such fluidity was due to the harmonizing color palette. While the first few designs were limited to black, it wasn’t long before amethyst, pale pink, pastel blue, metallic gold, and, finally, a striking red, emerged to help set the lively tone.

Lastly, although it may not be the most noticeable detail of the clothes, Acra presented us with a diverse range of sleeves this season, and completed a few of the ensembles with fur shoulder wraps. One thing’s certain—this is a collection that is sure to invite head turns.

February 10, 2014

NYFW Fall 2014: Academy of Art & Asian Fashion Collection

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by Jacqueline Rodgers
academy of art 2014
The Show: Academy of Art University
For the Fall 2014 season, 13 student designers presented eight collections; of the collections presented, four were collaborations between Fashion Design & Textile Design students. In total, six womenswear and two menswear collections were shown, and the designers are as follows:
Jaci Hodges collaborated with Nisha Hanna Btesh on a womenswear collection that was created with the use of Shibori, the Japanese technique of resistance felting. Jaci was inspired by the excess of prints worn during the late 1960s.
Frank Tsai‘s Fall 2014 menswear collection was inspired by the mood and emotion of an international photography collection, entitled “Beauty in Decay.” He collaborated with Andrea Nieto, who created the textiles for their collection.
Arijana Kajdic‘s Fall 2014 womenswear collection blended elements of masculine design with a slight feminine treatment. Each piece in the collection contained an immense amount of handiwork, ranging from hand-dyeing to hand-beading.
Flora Cervantes collaborated with Lori Solem on a Fall 2014 womenswear collection constructed from canvas, cotton, wool, and latex. She found inspiration in both the twisted shapes found in nature as well as the way human emotions are bent and gnarled by life experiences.
Earnest Huang collaborated with Hong Ni on a Fall 2014 womenswear collection. His pieces were comprised of natural materials such as leather, wool, and cotton, and the collection’s aesthetic was inspired by his travels to Hong Kong.
Elizabeth Castellon‘s Fall 2014 menswear collection is compresed of leather, a variety of wools, and uphostery fabrics. She took inspiration from futuristic architecture, interiors, sculptures, and also incorporated themes from 1930s sportswear.
Jasmine Gonzales‘s Fall 2014 womenswear collection includes hand-knitted pieces, hand-made yarns, and hand-dyed velvet, and was inspired by the idea of all cultures combining as one.
Mingyu Du, in collaboration with Joseph Khawane, used unique materials including an army tent, a wool blanket, a parachute, and a cotton canvas for her Fall 2014 collection. She was inspired by the mod fashions of the 1960s as well as the attitude and freedom of the youth from that period.
asian fashion collection-1
The Show: Asia Fashion Collection
Asia Fashion Collection (AFC) is an incubation project, produced and supported by Vantan and PARCO, in cooperation with the supporting industry organizations based in Asia, looking to contribute to the further development of the fashion industry across Asia. The promising young designers from Asia were given the opportunity to make a runway debut, together with talented design students from Vantan Design Institute in Japan.
VIANAD ViVi joanne Anais dorsbien by Maaku Susuki is based on a female image in which garments transform women dramatically.
R-SHEMISTE by Won Ji Yeun introduces new arrangements of fabric and textiles in accordance to each season’s theme. Accentuating the unique quality of the material, this brand is characterized by its modern features.
HANG by Mim Mak incorporates modernity with elegance as futuristic pieces flow with every move.
is by Akiko Kishimoto expresses elements of hardened elegance using leather, wool, and silk to create clothes that luxuriously shine in the dark.
AUSTIN.W by Tzu-Yun Wu features calm, cool, and neutral tones with a touch of futuristic gray.
SEi by Yumiko Sei is a haute couture brand that focuses on knitwear. The Fall 2014 season’s theme is “Seaming the Present with the Now.”
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