[Images via Kaci Hamilton]
Adrienne Vittadini
“I wanted the collection to be sensual but never sexy,” says, Kristiina Salminen, Design Director for Adrienne Vittadini. Consequently, the light, translucent knits in bold colors – vibrant orange and super lemon, as Salminen calls them – paired with demure taupe and silver were a fait accompli. The designer insists she was inspired by water, the rapid fluidity of it, and as well to create a “cyber tribal” print that was edgy yet sophisticated. It was simple, luxurious sport, aided in no small part by the weighty accessories styled by Lucy Sykes and Hannah Maynard. In the age of boho slouchy, Salminen has mastered ease without sacrificing tailoring or style.
[Images via Kaci Hamilton]
Mackage
I think if Lara Croft shopped in regular stores, her first stop would be Mackage. Studded jackets, voluminous shoulders, and all the neutrals and black the tomb raider could get her hands on are there for the taking. The presentation was full of pieces in that tailored, yet relaxed Lower East Side lounge style, and there was no scrimping on feminine details: lace, pearly whites, and peaches and cream served the perfect dollop of delicateness.
[Images via Elle.com]
Nanette Lepore
Moved to create after watching fireworks over the Istanbul Strait, the designer sent pops of shimmer and rosé and moss green, all the colors one would see when the night sky is alive with color. If the bright, punchy feel of her collection wasn’t enough to exude spring, Lepore presented wonderfully retro, high-waisted bikinis. They were the perfect accent to her distinctly ladylike looks and what a way to leave us with warm thoughts as winter 2010 approaches.
From l-r, top-bottom: La Dolfina, Laura Valenzuela, Evangelina Bomparola, Marcelo Senra, Maria Pryor, and Pablo Ramirez
[Images via Zimbio.com]
The Argentine Designers
There’s something brewing below the equator, and it’s fresh, experimental, contemporary, and surprisingly non-commercial in a very wearable way. The Argentine Designers’ show opened with looks from La Dolfina, and when the theme is “Polo Lifestyle,” it’s hard to not draw comparisons to Ralph Lauren and his fresh-faced polo players. LauraValenzuela evoked thoughts of wearable wardrobe pieces from a Tim Burton movies set. The show was a little bit rock n’ roll butterfly, with lots of black and cream and bud details that looked like baby’s breath. One might imagine Helena Bonham Carter going gaga over the look book. Evangelina Bomparola followed with lovely hard and soft contrasts, a military jacket here, a little bit of ruching there.
Next, Marcelo Senra, on the other hand, was just about the opposite, with very tribal, almost African looks. The models sported styled faux-hawks and dresses and tanks with woven collars. Maria Pryor’s models seemed like cryogenic princesses that had been awakened after years of slumber. The exaggerated shoulders, chain mail vests and leather were softened by white and silver, but that just added to the surreal look of it all. Pablo Ramirez ended the show with an avant-garde aesthetic that could only be described as “Puritan chic.” Tall cylindrical hats and black on white made for a recreation of 1600s Massachusetts, but the beauty about his presentation was that you could see his pouf sleeve blouse with a trouser jean, or the silk linen jacket covering a party dress for a night out.
–Kaci Hamilton
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