From the Runway | Fashion Pulse Daily - Part 182

From the Runway

October 17, 2008

Jean-Charles de Castelbajac S/S 2009: A Toy Story

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Images from WWD

Laced with nostalgia, Castelbajac’s playful collection depicts childhood, a time when life was full of clouds, rainbows, and Mickey Mouse, in the form of runway fashion. Models wore backpacks, larger-than-life bows, clear plastic, kissmarks, and legos. Disney characters and Superman were represented, as well as Barack Obama, for good measure. Apart from the kiddie-inspired graphics and accessories, the design of the garments themselves were constructed as loose fitting dresses, rompers, and tees–perfect for your next playdate…or whatever it is you do for fun these days.

October 12, 2008

Fashion Pulse Finds Togas & Cowboys in Paris at Lanvin and Hermes S/S 09!

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  • Lanvin S/S 2009 Collection

Alber Elbaz elevated the theme of the classic college toga party to the realm of high fashion in his Spring collection for Lanvin, by taking the look of a messy twisted and tied sheet and reinventing it as perfectly draped, one shoulder dresses in colorful stain and chiffon fabric. Nothing in this collection was simple, yet nothing was over the top either. The draping of these pieces, along with ruching, ballooned sleeves and hourglass waists (similar to Calvin Klein’s abstract collection), as well as the contrasting colors decorated and updated ordinary styles like the little black dress.

  • Hermès S/S 2009 Collection

Originally, us trendy New York fashionistas thought cowboy hats and fringe belonged solely as a Halloween costume, or on our mid-west cousin Sally. However, the minute we saw veterans Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell walk down the cactus strewn runway in Jean-Paul Gaultier’s Wild West creations, we couldn’t help but fall in love. As only Hermès could achieve with this theme, there was nothing tacky or cliché about the collection. Models donning black cowboy hats and riding gloves, and dark aviators looked like chic bandits ready to rob a bank or win a shootout. Even in a delicate and revealing red gown, Naomi Campbell looked fierce enough to intimidate any tough wrangler. We were drooling over the fringed Birkin and signature Hermès suitcases in snakeskin and zebra prints that helped add a dose of Parisian chic to this wild rodeo show.

October 6, 2008

Fashion Week Reflections from Jack Mackenroth

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jack mackenroth and becky newton

jack mackenroth and becky newton

We ran into one of our favorite people, the incredibly-talented Project Runway Season 4 contestant Jack Mackenroth during New York Fashion Week. He graciously agreed to field some of our most important fashion week-related questions!

FP: What collection just completely blew you away during NY fashion Week?
JM: I have to say my favorite collection was Christian Siriano. I was so proud of him I cried like a baby. He took his concepts to a whole new level. The construction was so complicated and gorgeous. He took the concept of puff sleeves and opened them up into strips of fabric. So fierce. Every look was absolutely amazing!

jack & rubin singer

jack & rubin singer

I also loved Rubin Singer and for men I thought John Crocco pulled out an amazing collection for Perry Ellis. He really pushed the aesthetic of the Perry Ellis brand and was much more fashion forward then I’ve ever seen. I loved the khaki fabric with the embroidered polka dots. I missed Diane Von Furstenberg and I was so bummed. I heart her!

FP: Was there a particular trend you saw that you loved?

JM: It seemed like the season of the paillette. I saw leaf shaped paillettes, clear paillettes, matte and shiny — all different shapes and sizes. I loved it.  I also think the trend of sheer and flowing fabrics is here to stay. It was everywhere. Also — harem pants. EWWWWWWW. They were everywhere. Not cute.

FP: Who was your favorite celebrity sighting?

jack, ana ruiz, and vanessa williams

jack, ana ruiz, and vanessa williams

JM: My absolute most favorite celeb sighting was at the Patricia Field fashion show! First of all it was a fabulous party atmosphere put on by MAO PR, and was full of drag queens and fashion superstars. I was in the front row sandwiched between Judith Light, Becki Newton, Ana Ruiz, and Vanessa Williams (all from Ugly Betty). They were so hilarious and nice.

FP: What was your favorite freebie?

JM: Ooooh–Perry Ellis gave out a fab bottle of cologne. I got an MP3 player at the Valentino party and a gorgeous watch at the opening of the Fossil store on 34th street.

FP: How did you “decompress” after fashion week? (I went out of town, even if it was just to Connecticut, for the weekend!)

JM: You know what? I didn’t get to at all. The next day I had to write a speech and powerpoint presentation for The US Conference on AIDS in Fort Lauderdale. I left 3 days after fashion week and just got back. Now I have to make a wedding dress out of 3000 white condoms for the Condom Couture fashion show for an Evening of Hope HIV benefit in San Francisco on October 15th.  Then I have to make a chocolate Wonder Woman costume with Zac Young, the pastry chef from Butter, for the Chocolate show on November 6th. Woo-hoo!!

FP: We heard that you and Kevin Christiana have something in the works – can you reveal a bit about it to us?

JM: Yes–It’s very exciting. We are co-hosts and co-designers on a new “re-design” show where we work with one female candidate each episode and we ambush her wardrobe and remake them into some fabulous creations. It’s a little bit Project Runway meets Queer Eye (with only one queer) and it has a really cute hook that makes it original… We also hope to rope in some of our favorite designers throughout the season.

FP: When you have your next show, who are the three people you would most definitely have in the front row?

JM: If I ever show at Bryant Park I would want my mom, Tim Gunn and Linda Evangelista sitting in the front row.

FP: And last, of all, we’d love for you to analyze three looks from New York Fashion week for us:

look #1) Herve Leger by Max Azria
JM: I am a child of the 80s and 90s and I loved the origianl Herve Leger and am digging the update. It takes a killer bod to wrap yourself in “ace bandages” but I love the shimmer and it would make a woman look gorge!

look #2) Alexandre Herchcovitch
JM: I thought this collection was very conceptual rather than wearable. I liked some of the prints and some of the great military details but I don’t think you will be seeing crotch ruffles on the streets anytime soon.

look #3) William Rast
JM: I really like this look by William Rast; I would wear the entire look. Denim seems to be moving away from the overdone back pocketing and dark wash, and back to the distressed look of the 80’s. I love the tee and the jacket.

A special thanks to Jack Mackenroth for sharing his thoughts and pictures with Fashion Pulse!

— Julia DiNardo

October 5, 2008

Dior S/S RTW Collection: It’s Electric!

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John Galliano’s collection this season consisted mainly of tight bodice tops, and tiered and frilly skirts. The charmingly eccentric designer paid homage to the style of the 1980’s with crimped hair, leggings, and sheer skirts revealing leotards underneath. However, it was the arrival of orange, yellow, lime-green, and hot pink frocks that immediately cued the ‘Electric Slide’ to start playing in our heads, and lit up the runway almost as bright as the City of Lights itself! We were enthralled by a black gown that looked like it was made for Madonna, early in her career. The sheer-skirted dress was also embellished with a burst of sparkles to add a little extra oomph to the evening.

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