March 1, 2009
by fashionpulse
Bundled-up, bluer-to-black ombré textures wrapped, whirled, and twirled around literal and intense personifications of androgyny at Akiko Ogawa. Carefully constructed squares of fabric portrayed an appearance of three-dimensional silhouettes with nearly all of Ogawa’s jackets, coats, and outerwear. Most looks were finished with black crocodile embossed leather (thin but not skinny) belts that seemingly fitted the dark and moody energy that drowned the, otherwise, bright, white tent. A key Ogawa look included a white to blue to black gradiation dyed wool melton peplum jacket with a tall, sharply folded collar and black wool jersey handkerchief shirt. The weighted-down mood ran parallel to the weighted-down and bulky textured wools, mohair, and twills used by Ogawa, but the intensely structured, yet innovative, necklines uplifted the ensembles, giving the “Akiko Ogawa woman” a sense of edgy strength.
-Devin VanderMaas
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February 28, 2009
by fashionpulse
Pat Field would have a field day with Custo Dalmau’s genius craft; if only she had one more episode of Sex and the City to style! Custo Barcelona’s collection was for that dashing diva; that style star; that risk-taking wearer. What seemed to be the magic formula to Custo’s enchanting ensembles was the fact that there was no obvious recipe — just dazzled doses of vibrant fabrics. Wild splashes of metallic color against brocades and jacquards tied the collection together as sequined jackets and leggings, watery colored paisley chiffons, beaded mini dresses, and lurex tweet blazers with feather detailing came down the runway. There were silhouettes of many kinds but the cool color tones along with silvers and golds certainly remained the constant. Girls just want to have fun! Recession? What recession? Custo Dalmau certainly understands the power of color, as he proved throughout the fall 2009 collection.
-Devin VanderMaas
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February 27, 2009
by fashionpulse
[Images via Style.com]
Insouciance was again a welcome central theme of Zac Posen’s Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear collection. Brilliant piano music courtesy of Steinway, who sponsored the show, and The 5 Browns, a marvelous troupe of brother and sister pianists, guided models as they traipsed down the runway in an array of ensembles that defined, rather than disguised, each woman. Every embellishment was purposeful; a kind of frivolous efficiency marks the collection, seemingly an affair between Victoriana, and a Zac favorite — the 1940s, an era that marked the emergence of women in a myriad of roles. Worn, grown-up florals, gold-flecked burnt orange mohair suiting, swaths of languid moire, and exuberant oxidized gold fabric all came out to play on Posen’s runway.
Sigrid Agren wore a gold broadtail overcoat with exaggerated shoulders and abbreviated sleeves that let a metal plisse skirt make an appearance that was anything but shy from underneath. The articulate marigold necklace just sinks into the voluptuous Venetian blue blouse, courted by mink panels on both sides. Zac transformed the dainty-featured model into a modern, eclectic Julie Christie in Doctor Zhivago with a penchant for the finer things. Another highlight of the collection was the textured antique gold, practically one step from resembling rope, present in a stunning gown with a regal neckline and finished off with Posen’s signature impeccable tailoring.
-Mary Casey
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February 23, 2009
by fashionpulse
Bibhu Mohapatra’s Fall-Winter 2009 presentation was the first I saw this spring, and quite a nice segue into fashion week, I may add. Held at the Bryant Park Hotel on Thursday, February 12th, while the tents outside were still being rigged, Mohapatra’s luxurious, sophisticated, and glamorous garments set an immediate standard for the rest of fashion week. The presentation was tantalizingly tactile, incorporating such diverse materials as silk, sequins, fur, lace, leather and a variety of thick, woven fabrics, not to mention the techniques of pleating, draping, tucking, belting, and sculpting. Essentially, it was all I could do not to jump up on the platform, bury my head in a model’s gray, cinema-star fur coat, and get myself unceremoniously booted out. But I’m glad I managed to resist, because I got to see the entire collection unfold in front of me in all of its 1930s evening wear, Japanese kimono, biker, and insect-inspired glory. (If you think I’m exaggerating check out the pictures!)
[Images via bibhu.com]
-Lily Allen
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