minimalism | Fashion Pulse Daily

minimalism

March 24, 2011

Fall 2011: Kinder Aggugini, Dolce & Gabbana, and Helmut Lang

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[Images via Elle.com]

Kinder Aggugini

If you hadn’t stopped to take in the Macy’s ads proclaiming designer Kinder Aggugini’s US arrival, you might want to start to take note. The designer’s eponymous label’s Fall 2011 show was a graceful unity of the simple yet tailored aesthetic he created for the Kinder Aggugini for Impulse line for the mega retailer. There was an architectural symmetry to the knee-length coats and pencil skirts, but a playful exuberance in the floral prints that peeked from beneath. Even a basic tee or two made an appearance, and they didn’t feel out of place for a second.

[Images via Elle.com]

Dolce & Gabbana

A little 1920s gangster, a little “Vogue” Madonna (minus the cones), the Dolce & Gabbana Fall 2011 show juxtaposed the masculine/feminine mix to a tee this season, and yes, we mean that literally. The looks alternated between the male and female-inspired pieces, with emphasis on fur trim, a multiplied star motif, and deconstructed zoot suits. Two secondary prints, a modern brocade and sheet music, provided a bit of whimsy and sultriness to the fall collection. In the accessory department, it seems Dolce & Gabbana left no shape or shade unturned, as star-shaped glasses, coin-purse belts, and bright pink oxfords were just a handful of the items to gush over.

[Images via Elle.com]

Helmut Lang

If Kinder Aggugini displayed an architectural symmetry for Fall 2011, then Nicole and Michael Colovos had architectural asymmetry under wraps over at Helmut Lang. The duo bedecked their bowl-cut model in draped and ruched cashmere, shearling and fur jackets, and cascading knit dresses, all in an elegant palette of black, white, taupe, and grey. The asymmetry came from the fact that there wasn’t an even hem in sight, and silhouettes that seemed predictable ended up multi-layered, one-shouldered, or highly angular. With her little rebellion in the form of black socks and boots, the Helmut Lang girl may don a sleek dress for the party, but she’ll show up on a motorcycle and pull out a cigarette holder the minute she arrives.

-Kaci Hamilton

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February 15, 2011

New York Fashion Week Fall 2011: Duckie Brown, Global Glam, Irina Shabayeva, and Buckler

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[Images via Style.com]

Duckie Brown

When the first model turned the corner at Duckie Brown, it was clear that designers Steven Cox and Daniel Silver were up to something. Present were the usual immaculate manoeuvrings of fabrics like tweed and wool; and the “bespoke” elements that turn a sweater into a chic straightjacket and a pair of pants into much-improved harem trousers. I say bespoke here because Duckie Brown has a specific client, and they want that specificity from Duckie Brown. What was new was the unmistakable minimalism: muted tones, almost no accessories. But as we said before, we like less, a lot.

[Images via Kaci Hamilton]

W Hotels Global Glam

For a hotel group synonymous with inimitable style, and locations on just about every continent, it was only a matter of time before W Hotels translated that combination into a global fashion melting pot. For the second time, W presented its Global Glam collection, a gathering of some of the hottest international designers, curated by fashion authority and W Hotels Worldwide Global Fashion Director, Amanda Ross. This year’s presentation featured Mara Hoffman, Eugenia Kim, Paolo Hernandez, Andrea Possé, Shaesby, Twinkle by Wenlan, Catherine Nicole, Fernanda Sibilia, Myne, Contego, iLuck, and Deepa Gurnani. The folks at W had the idea that instead of just having a lounge backstage, they could get closer to the public, with a display of tastes from around the world. Now that’s the kind of thinking we can get behind.


[Images via Allprojectrunway.blogspot.com]

Irina Shabayeva

Since winning Season 6 of Project Runway, Irina Shabayeva has continued to show the world that she is still that force to be reckoned with. Fall 2011 was all about lux contrasts, and embodied a statement Irina herself made: “For me, designing is an expression of who I am as a woman.” On-point minidresses were paired with chunky knits (very reminiscent of her winning look from the Michael Kors “Aspen Challenge”), ballooning gowns were amped up with crystal beading, and laser cut chrysanthemum petal appliqué and cut outs conjured thoughts of her PR alum Christian Siriano. It seems the Irina Shabayeva woman is a lot like the designer herself: focused, self-assured and, of course, chic.


[Images via Style.com]

Buckler

No offense Lincoln Center, we love the tents and all, but when Andrew Buckler blocked off his stretch of Grand St to create his Fall 2011 runway, we knew that’s where the action was. The gesture was just another step in Buckler’s homage to urban street art and the artists who create it. The collection was about the refined ruggedness of the craft, of the anonymity that comes with being a street artist, and a revamping of utilitarian staples – overalls, parkas, cargo pants. These are pieces that express individuality, simplicity, and a willingness to evolve, much like their inspiration.

-Kaci Hamilton

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September 24, 2008

Fashion Pulse Reviews the Calvin Klein S/S 2009 Collection

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With an almost completely stark white color palette that eventually delved into champagne, beige, and silver, Francisco Costa’s Calvin Klein collection let the shape of his garments do the talking this season. Shoulders harked back to a ‘80s padded aesthetic, and while some dresses were boxy, others looked as if they were simply draped sheets –- a pure ode to minimalism! Still, we felt the pieces were innovative and most definitely a work of modern art. It was refreshing to see a designer play with new proportions, instead of recycling old one, any easy move to do, considering the archive trove at Calvin Klein. We were most intrigued by a white cocktail dress whose straps looked they were carefully twisted into a 3-D triangle on one side, and a cube on the other.