Backstage and upstairs at the Chelsea-located Marchesa Fall 2011 Collection show, things were calm, but still mobile in preparation for the start of the show. Lead hairstylist Renato Campora was intensely focusing on procuring the perfect coif on the mane of a skinny blonde model, but other leading hair stylist Marshall Lin (whom can also be found at the Frederic Fekkai Salon in Soho) was free to discuss the Spanish Flamenco Dancer’s Chignon-inspired hairdo. “There are two textures we are creating in the hair here – tight in the front, and messy in the back,” Lin offered.
Prepping the hair with Fekkai COIFF Bouffant Lifting & Texturizing Spray Gel the hair was then sectioned off and pinned using an old fashioned pin set, then iron pressed to create a dreadlock-like texture at the ends. Once the pins were taken out, the hair was back-combed to create even more texture and volume, pulled into a simple, low bun (dry shampoo was used to emphasize the dry texture look) and pushed back in to create a look of fullness and texture on the sides, the Fekkai Classic Brush and Fekkai Sheer Hold Hairspray (all Fekkai products available at Fekkai.com, Fekkai salons, Nordstrom, Neiman Marcus and Saks Fifth Avenue) were also used during the styling, and after to finish off the look.
In the end, the front was flat and clean (like a dancer’s), but messy and voluminous in the back – combining two opposing textures in one hair-do that is both sleek and dramatic.
From makeup end, make-up artist Talia Shobrook drew inspiration from a deconstructed yet still elegant look, as if the girl had just emerged from the attic. Utilizing the products from Le Métier De Beauté, Shobrook rubbed a combination of Peachy Keen, Innocence, and Fire Lily onto the top and sides of the eyelids to create a light but layered red eyeshadow and used Magic to change the powders into more of a cream, finishing the eyes off with Mulberry (a silver eye shadow) and coated the eyelashes with Anamorphic brown mascara.
Brow pencils were used to enhance the eyebrows, and the same Fire Lily red used on the eyes were literally rubbed into the lips, also used with Magic to give it a creamier effect. Foundation mixed with moisturizer was used on the majority of the face to create a light fluidity to the canvas of the skin and Canvas (a nude color) was used under the eyes as a brightener. A dusty-pink rouge was used and brushed onto the cheekbones in a downward motion, lightly over-layed with a matte finishing powder, allowing for the blush to just creep through from underneath. To Shobrook, she imagines “a lady with style, a Marchesa fashion lady still clinging onto couture” as her main visual for the woman who is created via the artistry of this makeup design.
[Backstage image courtesy of Rose Lou]