[Image via WWD.com]

Proenza Schouler played with serious proportions during New York Fashion Week this season; oversize jackets and boxy silhouettes in heavy fabrics with leather and quilted details hit the runway, as judo, fencing, and karate sports ran alongside the idea of protection as a heavy inspiration on the collection. Designers, Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough took Asian inspirations from their recent visit to Bhutan, which were seen throughout the color palette of white, cream, black, and rust.  Proenza Schouler’s mix of clean and asymmetrical silhouettes with this particular color palette was far from lackluster, as the attention to leather and embroidery details within the pieces were exceptional, especially with the multi-color leather weaved mini skirts paired with an large than life crewneck sweater. Each piece was more unique than the last, making it almost impossible to wait for the collection to hit the stores!

- Ambika Makin

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FPD got the opportunity to attend TEEN VOGUE’s Fashion University, the exclusive weekend-long event (October 21-23) which was designed for the fashion-focused leaders of tomorrow. What a great opportunity to take part in — how many people get to sit in on personal seminars with Michael Kors, Alexander Wang, and Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez of Proenza Schouler? Here’s a recap of the event’s curriculum, broken into classes, or panels, that we attended, courtesy of TEEN VOGUE.

MICHAEL KORS: THE AMERICAN ICON

“I was incredibly, insanely fashion obsessed!” Michael began. Impatient to get going, Kors did what he could to see it all, read it all. He literally consumed the industry in the way it consumed him, joking about his valiant efforts at getting Italian Vogue delivered to New York City.

As a young student, Kors held on to the aesthetic he felt so strongly about; a chic woman semi-undone.  Still, he felt ready – ready to enter the world and figure out the puzzle of getting dressed for so many. Finally came his big break: while working at a local store, the owners asked if he would re-design last season’s jeans. In fashion terms, they were out. But, what was in? It was evident Kors knew what women wanted – (“I love women,” he told the audience earlier) – and the store owners took advantage of that.  Soon enough, it became his “thing” as he would do it all himself; he designed, worked, and made window displays… and it all paid off. Bergdorf Goodman’s Fashion Director approached Kors after seeing his window display. That very night he sketched out his collection to bring to them. They loved it, and the rest is history.

For Kors, the key to his success

is having access to the “real woman”. After all, she is the customer willing to place her card on the counter and make the purchase. Additionally, Kors advised maintaining a strong focus. There is no sense in trying to please everyone, in being everything to everyone. Clothing is transformative, but he is not looking to design a revolution. For Kors, clothing is about feeling good in the most familiar pieces. The iconic, yet casual American designer (sporting New Balance sneakers and jeans) stated that his work is “never done”. As he so aptly put it, “You really are only as good as your last collection.”

ALEXANDER WANG: THE STREET KING

Next on the theater’s stage was the incredibly accomplished, yet admirably humble Alexander Wang. At the ripe age of 27, he has achieved distinction and cool sophistication, an aesthetic that is his signature. A native San Franciscan, Wang’s story is a rare example of strong work ethic, entrepreneurship and modesty.

Wang knew New York was the place to start. With that, he made his move to Parsons. However, the classroom simply didn’t provoke Wang enough. His style of learning was rather unique in that he felt challenged outside of school, mainly at his four internships.

Recognizing a disconnect between clothing’s price tag and actual value, Wang wanted to change that. His first line was a small compilation of six pieces of knitwear. The idea was “unisex,” “oversized,” and it “evoked a certain mood.” Playing with sexuality, yet maintaining a sense of ease was a new and fun challenge in Wang’s fashion. He sold these sweaters to consignment shops. With nothing to lose, he kept pushing forward. It turns out people were interested, very, very interested.

Today’s Alexander Wang girl is “cool,” to put it simply. He wants to articulate and streamline this view as he grows to understand his customer more. What’s most fascinating about Wang is his intense involvement in his brand, the business, the production, the packaging, the e-commerce, etc. There is no aspect or department that he is not involved with. Like today’s educated customer, Wang knows that the idea, product, and price need to be transparent. Buying the clothing and loving the clothing are an experience.

As for being called “The Street King?”

“Well, everyone walks on the street, so I guess that’s a good thing,” Wang joked. A soft-spoken, slight individual, Wang permeates his own sincerity. His black sweatshirt and sneakers, his ruffled long black hair, and his lovable nervousness on stage brought us all back down to earth. “Don’t let anyone ever say that you can’t do it,” he declared.

PROENZA SCHOULER: THE DYNAMIC DUO

The last “course” I attended was Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez of Proenza Schouler, admitting that they shouldn’t have gone out so late last night. College buddies and collaborators, these two guys possess low-key, easygoing personalities which speak nothing to their driven ways and distinctive point of view in the industry. Two minds with one coherent vision, Jack and Lazaro (it only feels right to refer to them by first name) stand out in a slew of young New York designers.

As two students at Parsons, Jack and Lazaro did their homework together. They worked together, hung out together, and suddenly their two points of view became one. At the time, no one had worked on a senior thesis collaboratively. However, these guys knew what they wanted and approached their teacher, the well-known Tim Gunn of Project Runway. Barney’s bought the collection, and that was just the beginning.

Together, they were forced into starting their own thing. Still today, their creative process begins with the “cultural climate of the moment.” Following, a “dialogue” is constructed around what feels relevant. If it’s not fun creatively, for them it merely isn’t worth it.

Both designers agree that they are attracted to things that are different. It’s essential to start with an idea, but one must “make noise” with something new and different. The business aspect of the industry is still rather new for the pair (Andrew Rosen of Theory just invested in the company). Laz came clean admitting that the pure designer, ie: himself, is not always the best businessperson. Nonetheless, it’s an all- consuming job.

Who exactly is the Proenza girl? According to Jack and Lazaro, she wears it all. She is modern because she can mix the high and the low.

What about accessories? After all, so many covet the PS1 bag, myself included. Accessories are an opportunity to reach a broader audience being that they come in at a slightly more affordable price point. Laughing they proclaim, the beauty of bags is that one size fits all. I don’t know what I want more, a Proenza bag or a chance to just hang with the duo themselves?!

I left the FashionU seminars enlightened and inspired and encourage all of you to relive the Hudson Theatre seminars at fashionu.fora.tv. It’s clear that the grand momentum put forth isn’t just into the creative work, but also the principal business aspects. Fashion will continue to blur the boundaries of real life and work as it continues to define who we are as individuals and as a society.

-Alana Quagliariello

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Held annually in New York City, Teen Vogue Fashion University is a on- of-a-kind educational program where fashion is taught by those who know it best. This exclusive event is available for 500 women who aspire to a career in the fashion industry.  Women can attend seminars the seminars paneled by designers, editors, and fashion entrepreneurs to learn about the multi-faceted and exhilarating business of fashion.

This year’s Fashion University includes program participants Michael Kors, Alexander Wang, Whitney Port, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez of Proenza Schouler, Rebecca Minkhoff, Jason Wu and Betsey Johnson to name a few. Teen Vogue provides the industry’s young hopefuls with a unique edge, as those who attend are also welcome to interview seminar participants, a truly invaluable experience. The goal is to not only teach, but to inspire the new generation of fashion fanatics.

Moreover, for those who cannot make it to the live event, Fashion University can be experienced online for the first time! Viewers can watch the top six seminars as they happen live from Hudson Theater in NYC on October 22nd.

Registration is now open at fashionu.fora.tv for an early registration cost of $24.95 before Oct. 15th and $34.95 starting Oct. 16th. This year’s curriculum and more information can be found out at teenvoguefashionuniversity.com. Also, be sure to look for FashionU. on Facebook and Twitter. Get started with your fashion future now! Stay tuned for our coverage from the event.

Now, if only more schools were like this…

-Alana Quagliariello

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[Images via ELLE.com]

Handbags

JCrew (pictured above) absolutely nailed it with their ladylike collection of handbags for spring 2012. Blue, orange, green, yellow…did we mention leopard?! Perfectly practical, but still extremely fashion forward.

[Images via ELLE.com]

Clutches

I simply can’t pick a favorite, so let’s call it a tie. Proenza Schouler (at top) mixed textures to create tweed clutches with chunky chain detail straps, while Chloe mixed accessories to make what looks to be a bracelet-bag combo. Gotta have it!

[Image via Style.com]

Shoes

Celine really wowed with their take on the platform heel/pump for the upcoming season. Basic black or the marriage of black and red, simplicity says it all. Even more incredible, with your ankle strapped in, these shoes look totally wearable – dare I even say comfortable?

[Images via Style.com]

Sunglasses

Frameless sunglasses at Fendi felt interestingly academic. Deviating away from the line’s normal sexuality, the glasses definitely added to the serious, studious woman, a style rather novel for Fendi.

[Images via Style.com]

From left to right: Givenchy, Donna Karan [Images via Style.com]

Jewelry

Bracelets: The stacked multi-colored bangles at Carolina Hererra proved that wrists should not be left naked. The more, the merrier come Spring 2012.

Necklaces: Donna Karan went wild with her tribal-inspired neckpieces strung with wood and plastic. Meanwhile, Givenchy’s statement shark-tooth pendants give “sharp” a double meaning.

Fashion Week SS12 was an accessory-studded event; which piece is your favorite?

-Alana Quagliariello

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[Images via Style.com]

For F/W 2011 collection at Proenza Schouler, it was hard to not pay close attention to the one-of-a-kind textiles.   Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez designed their own prints that were mostly tribal-inspired; slouchy pants and narrow pencil skirts were spiced up with a slightly undone quality, found in variety of prints of their newly found unique textiles.  The color palette was reminiscent of earthy color tones but still had a cool, classic feel. The collection certainly had their signature stamp, and was at once eclectic but still wearable and new.

-Dana deBoer

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[All Images via Elle.com]

[J. Mendel Spring 2011 Collection]
Amazing Draping & Pleating
Designers weren’t afraid to show off their deft skills at draping and pleating this season, as horizontal, perfectly laid draping (seen above) and rich, Fortuny-like pleats added an air of ladylike classicism to Spring 2011′s runways.

[Marc by Marc Jacobs Spring 2011 Collection]

That 70′ Show

Every season boasts a general consensus of inspiration from decades past, and this time around the ’60s and ’70s most visibly reined. Everyone was talking about the Marc Jacobs and Marc by Marc Jacobs collections that heavily mimicked the 1970s vibe with everything from the hair and sunglasses to the free flowing silhouettes, fabrications, and color palettes.
-Julia DiNardo

[Nicole Miler Spring 2011 Collection]

Spotless Whites
This season I was very much in love with the use of pristine whites on the runway. It added a particular grace to each of the garments. Made from delicate chiffons and silks, these pieces were simple and tasteful. The flowing white fabrics were alluring, with hints of sophistication as well as seduction. The way the material clung to the body showed a true appreciation for the feminine form and highlighted the extraordinary talent of these inspiring designers.

[Z Spoke by Zac Posen Spring 2011 Collection]

Playful Prints

Who doesn’t love bright colors and eye-catching patterns?  I sure do! My favorite looks this fashion week were the fabulously, funky designs of Zac Posen and Rachel Antonoff. Their quirky baby doll dresses in blues, greens, yellows, and reds were brilliantly conceived and tons of fun! Each look had such a fresh, youthful spirit. Perfect for a girl who simply loves life!
-Claire Schmidt

Who: Calypso St. Barth
What: Women’s RTW & accessories, home decor, candles, fragrance – savings up to 80%
When: 12/15 – 12/18; Tuesday-Thursday 10am-7pm, Friday 10am-2pm
Where: 260 5th Ave (between 28th & 29th)

Who: Magnes Sisters
What: $40 – $99 a bag
When: December 8th-10th; 11am-7pm
Where: The Collective Showroom, 16 W36th Street, suite 501 (between 5th and 6th)

Who: Ports 1961
What: Prices start at 85% off!
When: December 11th, 11am-7pm
Where: 601 W26th, Suite 875

Who: Opening Ceremony
What: 60-90% off Acne, Alexander Wang, Erin Wasson x RVCA, Jeremy Scott, Opening Ceremony, Vena Cava & more
When: December 11th-13th; Friday & Saturday 11am-8pm; Sunday 12-7pm
Where: 201 Mulberry (between Spring & Kenmare)

Who: Proenza Schouler
What: RTW from previous seasons as well as F/W 2009
When: December 10th-11th, 8:30am-6:30pm
Where: 495 Broadway, 8th floor

Who: Theory
What: Coats $199 and under; Jackets $149 and under; Dresses $119 and under; Sweaters $109 and under; Pants $99 and under; Shirts $89 and under
When: December 7th-9th, 11am-7pm
Where: 261 W36th Street, 2nd floor (between 7th & 8th Avenues)

Who: Balenciaga
What: 40% off select merchandise
When: December 3rd-January 1st, 11am-7pm
Where: 542 W22nd St

Who: Simon Showroom
What: Merchandise by A Peace Treaty, C&C California, Citizens of Humanity, Falls, Goldsign, Iro, Wren *cash only*
When: December 7th-9th, 10am-7pm
Where: 95 5th Avenue, 3rd Floor (corner of 17th Street)

Who: Helmut Lang
What: Women’s merch up to 60% off
When: December 9th-13th, 11am-8pm
Where: 819 Washington Street (at Ganesvoort)

Who: Lauren Merkin
What: Handbags, clutches and accessories up to 70% off
When: December 8th-11th, 11am-7pm and December 12th 11am-4pm
Where: 231 W29th St, Suite 201 (Between 7th & 8th avenues)

Who: AKA New York
What: Prices $20-$100; up to 80% off *cash only*
When: December 10th 10am-7pm & December 11th 10am-5pm
Where: 246 W38th St, Suite 1109

Who: Diane von Furstenberg
What: Up to 75% off
When: December 8th-11th – Tuesday 9-6:30pm; Wednesday 10-8pm; Thursday 10-7pm; Friday 9-3pm
Where: 260 Fifth Ave, near 28th Street

Who: Autumn Cashmere
What: Up to 75% off
When: December 7th-11th 9am-6pm
Where: 251 W36th St, 2nd floor, near 7th Avenue

Who: James Jeans
What: Jeggings, straight & skinny legs $80, bootcut styles $70-$80, one-of-a-kind samples $15-$50
When: December 8th-11th; Tuesday-Thursday 9:30-7:30pm, Friday 9:30-2pm
Where: 500 Greenwich St, Suite 202, near Spring Street

Who: Alice + Olivia
What: Party dresses $179, pants $99, tops $89
When: December 8th-11th, 8am-8pm
Where: 80 W40th St at 6th Avenue

Who: Rag & Bone
What: T-shirts $40 and under, denim $80 and under, dresses $170 and under, blazers $190 and under, leather jackets $450 and under
When: December 10th-13th; Thursday-Saturday 12-8pm, Sunday 12-6pm
Where: 100 Christopher Street, near Bleecker Street

Who: Vera Wang
What: Bridal & bridesmaid dresses 25-75% off
When: December 12th, 9am-5pm
Where: The New Yorker Hotel, 481 Eighth Ave at 34th Street

Who: Olive & Bette’s
What: Trina Turk, Cynthia Steffe, Velvet, Splendid, Free People, Nanette Lepore, Theory, and more up to 75% off
When: December 10th, 8am-7pm
Where: 384 Bleecker St at Perry St

Who: Miguelina
What: Prices range from $25-$195
When: December 9th-11th, 8am-8pm
Where: 20 W36th St, near 6th Avenue

A bustier dress has been defined over and over again as the ultimate in sexy. Although a bustier top or dress by Jean Paul Gaultier or Proenza Schouler would be ideal, an inexpensive price point is more in line with reality these days. That makes this Pleated Bust Dress, $32 an exceptional find. Available in three colors, my choice would be black, as you can definitely get extra mileage out of it that way.

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