Cynthia Rowley

One of the punchiest collections this season, right out the gate it was evident that this was going to be one of the most exciting displays of fashion for the season. All about texture, color, and avant garde accessorizing, Rowley. Puff, layering, and movement was emphasized in the collection, with rows of perfectly cut fringe cascading down the front and back of blouses set our hearts ablaze. Clothes for the confident woman of style were found here, but also for those willing to have a little fun with fashion, and themselves; after all, isn’t that what it should be about?

[Images via NyMag.com]

Karen Walker

A collection based on the idea ‘what if Bob Dylan and the Sound of Music got together’ Karen Walker shined with custom prints, tailored flannel, and a dash of sheepskin. Be prepared for the Austrian Alps or wind-tunnel laden streets of New York City in Walker’s retro-cool, pop-culture referenced latest creations.

[Images via NyMag.com]

Vivienne Tam

For the upcoming fall 2010 season Ms. Tam dazzles the eye with metallics, red, and ultra-chic origami silhouettes; both superfluous and restrained in their shaping. Tam knows how to work a woven garment and frilly layers to perfection.  In this abbreviated collection of just 18 looks, Vivienne Tam proves yet again that it is quality over quantity that truly matters; fast fashion are you listening?

-Julia DiNardo

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Tfank this season was more hands-on than ever; she designed her own textiles for the fall/winter 2010 collection.  In the past she used Bianchini-Ferier fabrics in her collections and this season she was inspired by the Fauvist painter, Raoul Dufy, “whose witty, joyful textile designs for Poiret and Bianchini Ferier radically transformed modern fabric design…” in the words of Tfank.

The collection, which appeared to be vintage inspired in silhouette with cinched waists and full skirts, was decidedly structured and feminine.  At the same time Tfank’s collection was soft with an element of playfulness, using round and geometric prints on beautiful metallic fabrics in bold color: fuchsia, aquamarine, and lime green her deeper tones included burgundy, gunmetal and black.

-Jen Paelmo

[Image via NYmag.com]

VPL by Victoria Bartlett

Tribal meets bohemian and goes back to the future at VPL‘s “Shadow” F/W 2010 Collection. The neck was again the body part in focus, adorned with layered knit, rope and sculptural bike-like wire necklaces. Balancing extravagant top-half garments, many models rocked neutral bathing suit bottoms or patterned leggings. Cropped jumpsuits, futuristic capes and asymmetrical pieces donned leather accents and the occasional cut-out, followed by a several piece finale of beige, taupe & cream bodysuits, swimwear and the punch-line design, all-wool voluminous one piece. The collection is truly “underwear, outerwear, anywhere.”Billy Reid

Using the woods as both his backdrop and inspiration, Billy Reid cleans up the scruffy lumberjack to modern city prep. Perfectly creased pants and carefully cuffed sleeves are accented with hunter caps, bow ties and casually wrapped scarves. This collection is ideal for the slightly meticulous detail  dude who wants to dress to impress without trying too hard. The casual vibe of the collection impacted the models, who moved to the beats of the show’s soundtrack while waiting their turn in front of the paparazzi.

- Maria Eilersen

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Although the start time was delayed by the highly anticipated Project Runway show, Yigal Azrouel was a designer worth waiting for. Organic lines met structure on the catwalk, accented by exposed zippers, bold shoulders, sheer fabric and rhinestones. Composed of a wide yet cohesive pallete, the collection was a visual treat. Earth tones balanced graphic-printed wool, while valiant colors and dynamic black accentuated the amazing angular cuts. Sexy and modern LBD’s were contrasted by sweater-looks with echoing volumes of fabric draped around the neck. Check out the entire collection here.

[Image via Style.com]

Inspired by Nicola Sassoon’s pixelated landscapes, Risto brought distinctive patterns to life on the runway. Rainbow-stained designs inaugurated the collection, succeeded by aquamarine-streaked black garments. Rust and turquoise brush-stroked fabrics followed suit, lightening into woolen shades of gray before returning back to the stark contrast between black and confident ruby. Fitted leggings, embellished wool capes and sheer blouses dominated the collection. See more here.

[Image via NYmag.com]

Frank Tell redefines coherence at Milk Studios, his choice of venue this season. Threading his pieces together with sharp angles, dramatically textured collars and woolen tassels, Tell’s models all don a single black elephant-tusk pierced through the left ear, encapsulating the essence of a very  characteristic style. Each garment echoes the last, impressively limited to the tones of white, black, beige, gray and powder blue. Dynamic pointed platform wedges complete each look, making every girl (or boy) present green with envy.

- Maria Eilersen

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[Image via ssense.com]

Held at the historic St. Marks theatre, the aged venue immediately evokes an essence of Bess’ A/W 2010 Collection.  After complimentary absinthe, the red curtain unveils the  first model who creeps across the stage to the eerie soundtrack of a Japanese lullaby. Bess’ designs are hauntingly beautiful, thematized by a rich variety of texture in the form of black lace, leather, fur and stitches. The morbid undertone recalls Tim Burton’s endearing dark characters, epitomized by embellishments of rough patchwork on fitted leather. We love the macabre aesthetic – as do other creative experts including Alexander Wang and Marc Jacobs. Check out our favorite looks below or experience the enchanting Bess fairy tale here.

MODERN ELEGANCE: ROBERT TONNER A/W 2010

Robert Tonner is a true gentleman, a trait that thoroughly resonates in his designs. The collection epitomizes elegance and was aptly previewed at the oh-so-fitting Algonquin Hotel.  In fact, the talented designer claims the venue “became a part of [his] inspiration, fueled by his affinity for the space’s “vintage feeling.” The other half of his influence is drawn from the heroine of his newly finished novel, Ellowyne Wilde, who typifies the modern city woman. With their hair pulled tight into an exaggerated Audrey Hepburn-like bun, three models at a time flaunt fitted female suits, romantic ruffles and elaborately embroidered evening gowns in the glow of antique chandeliers. Below are some of our favorite looks:

WELCOME TO THE LAND OF CHADWICK BELL: F/W 2010

Carefully placed live mannequins showed off Chadwick Bell’s A/W 2010 Collection at La Venue in the Meatpacking District last night. Doused in tranquil earth tones, his designs were simple & refined. Despite the rather limited preview, the line is pregnant with aesthetic intrigue: seductively exposed backs, wooden heels and low-yet-sophisticated necklines.

- Maria Eilersen

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The Boudior D’huitres show for the Spring/Summer 2010 season was a conceptualized materialization of jellyfish and the ocean. With vibrant blues, accents of pink and yellow and luminescent sequins to capture the reflection and sparkle of the water, the presentation was truly an emulsion into the sea. Other than color, techniques of the collection “Medusa is Blooming” also reflected Boudior D’huitres motif with ruffles representing jellyfish tentacles and volume-boosted skirt structures as the bulbous jellyfish body. Surprisingly though, there were some great bright-colored leather worked jackets and dresses that provided balance to the more ethereal pieces.

-Jaimie Sanita

[Images via MercedesBenzFashionWeek.com]

Thuy

Exposed zippers, multiple mixed fabrications, and bustier accents were the metier of Thuy for Spring 2010.

Rebecca Taylor

Massive ruffles, oversized pants, muted jewel tones, and the chicest polka dots ruled the runways at Rebecca Taylor this season.

Custo Barcelona

Fringe, contrasting colors, and see-through details were the themes this season that culminated into Custo’s eclectic must-haves.

Vasilios Kostetsos

For his first time showing in NYC, Vasilios’ collection had a decent amount of sparkly young dresses for PYTs; the menswear felt decidedly Greek, but the womenswear could easily be found in L.A., N.Y.C., or the Mediterranean.

Jill Stuart

Touch girly chic is what Jill Stuart’s customers love, and she always delivers. This collection offered up amazing bodice details and the signature oversized bows.

Yigal Azrouel

The womenswear reigned supreme, with standouts including a bright orange frock, geometric shaping, and artful sequins.

Cynthia Steffe

The blues, the aquas, the flow, the ruffles! Just pure chic! Also of note were the gunmetal shimmer dresses -to die for!

Twinkle by Wenlan

Bla k and white geometry seemed to be the theme of the day for many designers, but  Twinkle by Wenlan certainly brought a fresh approach to the classic combination, with a colleciton based upon “the spirit of Yoko Ono with the attitude of Blondie.” She executed great little details like tiny centered bows perfectly placed down the back of a blouse.

Charlotte Ronson

Charlotte has definitely hit her stride and appears at home with this slightly cheeky, still sweet, Manhattanite vibe collection that goes casual, yet includes shoulder hardware, leather, and bejewled pockets.

Nicole Miller

Youthful sequins, geometrics, 4-square block dresses, long sequin streaks down skin-tight pants defines the spring/summer Nicole Miller lady. Nicole is such a smart designer and knows that keeping it chic yet practical this season is just what her custoer is looking for.

Erin Wasson x RVCA

Uber-casual, super-slouchy numbers seemed to be the theme of Erin Wasson’s second outing with RVCA, with my favorites being the light-colored slightly bell-bottomed jeans and cream striped gauchos. I had the opportunity of covering the hair and makeup backstage for Maybelline, and loved the look done by makeup artist Charlotte Willer-stay tuned for the backstage interview!

Venexiana

As Katie Stern told Fashion Pulse Daily in the interview, she worked with beautiful, luxurious fabrics this season, in a collection that felt reigned in from her usual frou, but I think it work beautifully. The black on white applique, high voltage sequins and oversized ruffles looked amazing, as well as a beautiful leaf print fabric that appeared sevral times throughout the show.

-Julia DiNardo

From Haleh Nematzadeh's recent collection

The show I saw last night was by designer Haleh Nematzadeh, who just started her collection in 2008, a couple years after she graduated from the Fashion Institute of Technology.

Haleh launched her own line after successfully designing a collection for Patricia Field, and since then, her designs have been compared to brands Ashish and Jeremy Scott. To read more about Haleh, check out Coutorture’s exclusive interview.

I’ll be honest–I wasn’t expecting to love Haleh Nematzadeh’s collection. Her “sweet rock-and-roll plus high-fashion” designs seemed a bit too “rock-and-roll” and not quite “sweet” enough for my taste, especially with her generous use of fishnet tops from her “On The Fringe of My Spirit” collection.

When I went to the show, however, I was rocked off my socks. Haleh Nematzadeh shaved off just enough of that edge and softened the looks a bit without sacrificing any structure or pizzaz. Her creativity in the use of layers in both colors and fabrics gave the audience a whole new perspective on Haleh’s take on feminine fashion.

-Caroline Tseng, editor-in-chief of Street-Spotted

Oh, but those are just words. See for yourself: