Sass + Bide

Sass +Bide used contrast to create harmony via mixing navy and white polka dots with sequins and bright silk, which felt bold and refined at the same time. Strong metallic and tribal beading formed a beautiful alliance. If there was one thing that left viewers pondering, it was how could “opposing forces” possibly work so well together?

Vivienne Westwood Red Label

Vivienne Westwood wholeheartedly believes in fashion and fun as one unit. Through adapting historical garments into more modern pieces, Westwood shows no restraint, which is what we often love most about her. Over-the-top hair and makeup imposed even more sculpture to already exaggerated suiting pieces, as trousers, jackets, and blouses were untamed, and extravagant in dimensionality. For the eclectic designer, fashion continues to be a living political expression and art form warranting conversation, even decades after her brand’s inception.

Jonathan Saunders

Jonathan Saunders traveled back in time to a period of graceful femininity by using a delicate, “sugary” palette of colors, simple sundresses, negligees and pinafores that were reminiscent of the 1950s wholesome housewife. Traditional fabrics, such as pin-dot printed cottons, jacquard, and silks kept things orderly, while ombre skirts, and dresses paired with sheer silks broke free of the old-fashioned, retro air as if to say cheers to the modern woman in all of her relevant roles.

-Alana Quagliariello

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Amongst the sturdy, woven pieces that seamless;y translate from runway to real way, Jaeger London showed an imaginative mix of color and fabric, filmy layers, and burnt orange and cool blue color combinations that is sure to attract even more stylish women to the label.], already a longtime favorite of Fashion Pulse Daily!

[Image via ELLE.com]

Mulberry

This season Mulberry featured sherbert and saturated, monochromatic citrus hues with some artfully draped leather pieces in the mix, but naturally we couldn’t keep our eyes off of the lemon and lime hued bags!

[Image via Burberry.com]

Burberry Prorsum

The heritage brand is also very clearly thinking of tribal for spring 2012, with gorgeous patterning, twisting, and tying of skirts, and dark olive, khaki, deep teals, punchy maroons, and honey-tinged outwear perfect for an urban safari. Check out the show’s  livestream, as well as shop select pieces from the collection-now!

-Julia DiNardo

Preen

Preen previewed their most girly collection yet as they continued with clever cutting and simple, sexy silhouettes. White lace, ruffles and a once-floral print pixilated into a pattern of lemon yellow and bubble gum pink began the show. However, things darkened toward the end with a black floral motif, perfect for the professional woman. The design duo proves they are still going strong as their silhouettes become more streamlined and their collections more sophisticated.

Clements Ribeiro

Suzanne Clements and Inacio Ribeiro used extremely personal inspiration, their home and studio, as the source of the show’s fruition. Nineteenth century wallpaper and lace, sixties uniforms, and new volume evolved into striped lace pencil skirts and a longer hemline. A newer, more athletic element featured silk pants and shorts, matching racerback tanks and boxy tees. Still, the Clements Ribeiro show could only be described as sensationally sweet, with its romantic touch of home.

Issa London

With It-girl Pippa Middleton (and chairwoman Camilla Al Fayed) attached to the brand’s name, the buzz about the Issa label could signal tremendous expansion. This season displayed pretty dresses, the most coveted being the frocks in white eyelet and black and metallic lace. Drawing on Rio de Janeiro, a natural muse, the tropical pineapple and palm leaf prints decorated both suits and dresses. To continue with the theme, a variety of swimwear and cover-ups popped on the runway to complete the 40 piece production, sure to be seen around town come spring..

-Alana Quagliariello

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[Images via LondonFashionWeek.co.uk]

Vivienne Westwood Red Label

Never dull, deliciously gaudy colors daubed the F/W 2010 Collection, imbuing plaid, pinstripes and solids with flair on the catwalk. The line was thick with heavy layers, angular cuts and voluminous texture, comprised of looks accented with whisky flyaway bouffants fit for tea with the Mad Hatter. Purple suits, pink coral tights and the odd apron epitomize the funky and endearing Westwood-ian aesthetic that makes Wonderland come to life, just in time for Tim Burton’s new film premiere.

[Images via Style.com]

Burberry Prorsum

Christopher Bailey seduces us yet again with when sexy meets conservative in his F/W Collection. With a touch of color , thigh-high python and black-scaled leather boots and tons of fur, Bailey revamps basic outerwear in another Prorsum line to die for. Jackets ranged from classic thigh-grazing trenches and waist-length bombers to cropped volumes of fur-lined leather. The neutral and jewel-toned garments that peeked through were rich in texture, providing a fine contrast to the sheer black tights underneath the cropped cuts. Letting his designs speak for themselves, models rocked natural wind-blown hair as onlookers slowly turned green with envy. Check out the entire collection here.

-Maria Eilersen

If the knitwear, fuzzy fur, and animal prints aren’t enough of a hint, a runway enveloped with fall leaves and adorned with tree branches, along with head ornaments along the lines of antlers, should be screaming Unique‘s vision to you: amidst the wilderness emerges a female hunter, raised amongst the deer, befriended by the wolves. Well, perhaps that was the work of my imagination, but this timely fall collection is indeed somewhat a call to the wild, with knits, bulky jackets, long sweaters, fur-trimmed leather jackets and white shirts printed with pictures of foxes and such. But Unique’s isn’t just a woman of the wild; she is also a hunter, it seems, or a scout, a soldier. Also present this season were military suits, badges and blazers. She isn’t entirely masculine or feral either – returning to her femininity as she throws on sheer dresses beneath her long jackets and fur. It will be interesting to see how the fans translate such savageness into high street-appropriate chic come this next winter.

- Justina Lee

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[All images via Style.com]

In 2009, Mark Fast made news when his stylist walked out amidst his decision to use plus-size models. A season later, the Canadian knitwear designer is still sending models in sizes 12-14 down the runway, remarkably determined to challenge the norm that only rail-thin models can dazzle in his dresses. The daring move might have stolen the limelight, but sizes aren’t the only opposites in Mark Fast’s runway show in London; he’s also playing with silhouettes, alternating between loose drapery and body-hugging dresses and knitwear. In his experimentation with drapery, Fast wrapped his models with loose fabrics in seemingly spontaneous ways. More impressive was the cross between Fast’s two paths — for several looks, he ruffled and gathered up his tight dresses with dramatically draped fabric.

His other game – the fitting dresses and knitwear – played with cobwebby knits and conspicuous knots. There was also something athletic about the knitwear; the straps around the arms, the tight fit, the overtly modern designs. Apart from his nerve, this collection certain said something about the designer’s unique vision for knits and his plan to move forward.

- Justina Lee

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Our favorite Goth-inspired runway looks:

Rick Owens

Gareth Pugh

Limi Feu

Rodarte

[Images via Style.com]

[Images from londonfashionweek.co.uk]

Matthew Williamson

Back to London fashion week in order to celebrate its 25th anniversary, Matthew Williamson introduced a somewhat surprising collection that featured body conscious and modern clothes instead of his signature boho look full of florals and butterfly prints. The clothes were heavy with intricate embellishments, geometric designs (the triangle prints were especially exquisite), metallics, gathered waist skirts/shorts and bright colors. All in all, the show featured a lot of the trends we’ve seen thus far for Spring 2010 collections — nothing too revolutionary and perhaps slightly unfocused — though Williamson’s interpretations are definitely among the best, and of course a collection does not have to be cutting-edge to be good. Very bold, very flashy and very on-trend, the collection however remains completely wearable and feminine, true to Williamson’s roots.

[Images from londonfashionweek.co.uk]

Sass & Bide

Made up entirely of Sass & Bide’s signature black, white, and gold color palette, this show nevertheless remained unique and captivating and is definitely my favorite collection from Sass & Bide in quite a while. From pristine and glamorous chrome-topped Grecian gowns to harem pants to (my personal favorite) metal leggings, the clothes are reminiscent of the ancient Egyptians and Aztecs, creating a futuristic warrior-chic feel and are able to separate themselves from the other collections we’ve seen thus far that have heavily favored embellishments.

[Images from londonfashionweek.co.uk]

Jonathan Saunders

The muted, calming color palatte shown at Jonathan Saunders was a welcome change from the dramatic detailing that’s been so popular on the runways for S/S 2010. The light, breezy fabrics and transparency come like a breath of fresh air and this collection is truly perfect for springtime. The models sported fresh-out-of-the-shower hair, which added to the overall ethereal aesthetic of the collection. Neon colors and linear designs were overlapped with frosty shades that created both a soft and modern, if not exciting, effect.

-Sarah Nason

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[Images via Style.com]

In high school, attempting to be a prom queen, punk, preppy schoolgirl, and junior cadet simultaneously would result in a supremely confused adolescence. Yet in her Fall-Winter 2009 collection, Luella Bartley proves that when it comes to clothes, these stereotypes can be synthesized into a super-chic and completely harmonious hybrid. The collection’s color palette is limited, consisting primarily of blacks, grays, and browns, but Bartley makes sure to use at least two of the three colors in each garment, which, along with eye-catching gold buttons, zippers, and hook-and-eye clasps, makes her suits, skirts, and dresses anything but basic. The variety of materials in the collection also adds to its interest, with individual outfits incorporating wool, satin, chiffon, leather, and quilted and carpetbag fabrics. All in all, the collection was defined by its military-inspired symmetry (especially in the placement of buttons and pockets), its charming schoolgirl details (think Peter Pan collars, pleated skirts, blazers, and book bags), and of course, its edgy, British punk-rocker elements such as zippers, plaids, and buckled straps. I’d say Luella’s achieved the perfect mixture of sugar and spice—and that pigtails have never looked so badass.

-Lily Allen

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