[Carlos showing the first dress he created for the collection, a sneak peak at a fabulous printed dress]
[The dress shown above, on the runway. Image via MercedesBenzFashionWeek.com]
After a wonderful backstage interview with the ever-charming and talented Carlos Miele, I was anxious to see the clothes on the runway, assured they would receive accolades from the press. Backstage on the hangers the clothes looked, stunning, and as predicted, on the models they took my breath away. Cool fur capelets, fringed vests, and evening gowns mixed with a color palette of swirled coral/pink stole the show. In a season when most designers veered away from color, Miele embraced the rainbow found in his applique, charmeuse, lace, chiffon, and more. Of MAJOR note, however is that pret-a-porter gets an eco-consious, thanks to Mr. Miele. This season he used remnant pieces of fabric in his collection, as well as the birth of Bio Denim –– a biodegrable fabric produced from excess denim leftovers with a natural softner finish (made of Cupuacu’s butter, a Brazilian traditional fruit found in the Amazon) opposed to the usual chemicals and enzymes.
You’ve heard it from Nigel in The Devil Wears Prada: size 0 is the new 2, and size 6 is the new 8. This is the pressure that we receive not only from rail-thin models in ads and editorials, but also from designers who don’t even offer clothes in sizes beyond 10. Abby Z. is trying to change that with her namesake collection, which specializes in designs from sizes 12 to 24. With popular HSN appearances and celebrity support, Abby Z. is growing fast. We recently chatted with her to find out what exactly she means by “sexy at every size”!
Fashion Pulse Daily: With V Magazine’s recent plus-size editorial and increasing exposure of plus-size models in mainstream fashion magazines, the industry seems to have become more accepting of curvier girls. But these features are usually one-off, maybe a tad bit gimmicky in their celebratory nature, themed around plus sizes. Do you think plus-size models will ever go beyond that level to really become part of the fashion norm/mainstream?
Abby Z.: I think plus-size modeling has come a long way with the partnership of Abby Z and HSN selling all sizes on live TV [and] having four live models [who] are all different sized women. [It] is my goal that women will feel sexy at every size.
FPD: As a stylist and a designer, what do you think is the major difference between designing for thin girls and more curvier ones?
AZ: There is no difference on designing; the difference is in the fit. FPD: How did your own experience of being a plus-size girl influence you as a designer?
AZ: My passion and desire as a woman and a designer is to be able to shop with my girlfriends. Today the department stores still separate the skinnies from the curvies.
FPD: As a fashion industry veteran, how did your first-hand experience inspire you to design for bigger girls? AZ: “SEX IN THE CITY gone Large” …. April 2004 I went on TV as well as presented to Saks Fifth Avenue my first curvy collection, which was completely inspired by the TV show Sex In The City. Saks Fifth Avenue successfully launched my first Abby Z. Collection in July 2004.
FPD: What is the hardest thing about running a line specifically for the plus-size market?
AZ: The hardest thing is women committing to their size. Women purchasing at retail that are sizes 12 and over have to commit to the size they are wearing today and enjoy the clothing.
FPD: Any styling tips for plus-sizes you’d like to share?
AZ: What flatters you most a v-neck top vs a crew neck. It is ok to show your cleavage. If you have big calves and you can’t tuck your jeans into your boots, wear capris and buy those hot boots you have always wanted.
FPD: You often work with plus-size models yourself. What do you think their future will be?
AZ: Plus size models have a bright future ahead with the majority of the population being over a size 12. And the fashion magazines have begun to show all sized women.
FPD: For many plus-sized girls, it’s more than a problem of clothes; it’s also the lack of self-confidence caused by the pressure of social norms about weight. What is the message Abby Z. wants to send to these girls?
AZ: You are sexy at every size and in our “its good to be me” campaign all women [should know that].
Back Stage Beauty at William Rast with Charlotte Willer of Maybelline and Thomas Dunkin of Sebastian
The look to accompany William Rast’s Fall 2010 collection was beautiful clean skin with a pretty highlighted cheekbone, a full Bridgette Bardot inspired lash and the perfect nude pucker. The hair was a new take on the oh-so-popular beach wave meets fluffy hippy-chic.
Charlotte Willer, key makeup artist for Maybelline, demo’ed the look on one of Rast’s models. The look can be worn by “any woman of any age,” she said (see the clip above). The makeup was sexy, but fresh and modern at the same time. To get the look at home:
– Use your fingers to apply Maybelline Dream Liquid Mousse Foundation for flawless looking skin
– Define your brows using Maybelline Define a Brow pencil in a shade close to, or just slightly lighter than your own brow hairs
– Layer lots and lots of Colossal Volume Mascara in Glam Black to create a dramatically defined eye.
– Use your fingers to apply Maybelline Color Sensational Lip Color in “Barely There” (backstage they were still calling this color “backstage #5). The color was created by Willer and Maybelline especially for the Rast Fall 10 collection. If you’ve been looking for the perfect nude and are nearing throwing your hands up in frustration, this is the color for you! Regardless of gender and race, all models at the William Rast show sported the perfect nude lip down the runway.
– The look can be finished off using various loose powders in small amounts from the Maybelline Mineral Power collection just to give the look a very luminous fresh feel
Two tips for at-home makeup application by Charlotte are:
1. Use your hands to apply everything, the warmth from your body will give products a natural and seamless feel.
2. To test out what color would look nude on your lips without actually testing the lipstick on your lips, smudge a bit of lipstick on your inner middle finger. The color of the skin in this spot is close to your natural lip color!
To get the perfect beachy meets hippy chic voluminous and soft looking hair, Thomas Dunkin and his team of stylists used Sebastian Volupt spray and a blow dryer. For replicating the look at home, take small to medium sections of hair and use the Volupt spray to twist and scrunch using the blow dryer to set the hair and dry the product. Continue in small to medium sections around the head until all hair has been set and scrunched using Volupt. Finish with Sebastian Craft Clay or Molding Mud at the ends of the hair to create piecey-ness and to complete the look. Dunkin was definitely a fan of the Volupt spray, he noted that it gave the hair a lot of “scrunched” texture without making it look crunchy – think a new take on “scrunched” hair.
[Image via Style.com]
Overall at William Rast the look was biker-chic meets vintage American. More leather than denim was seen this time around as the line is aiming to expand it’s reach with fringe, fur, Native American inspired patterns, new cotton and jersey knits, shiny cargos and tailored menswear. The completed look with hair, makeup and the clothes is definitely a must-see, as I’ve already tried the makeup look for myself and am a huge fan! Try it out and go get inspired! For the complete line visit Style.com or view our finale video here!
[The dress shown above, on the runway. Image via MercedesBenzFashionWeek.com]
